Install the perimeter L-Channel first, so that the bottom
horizontal surface is 1-inch below the joists or furring that the
CeilingLink top track will be attached to. Butt L-Channel pieces
together to span dimensions greater than 8-feet. For corners, you can
either butt the L-Channel pieces together, or cut 45s, depending on your
tools. Getting 45s to fit together neatly can sometimes be tricky, so
butting the pieces together is OK. On outside butted corners, you'll
need to nip away a part of the vertical L-Channel that extends beyond
the corner. Hand cutters, like the ratchet anvil cutters that we recommend
(also called anvil pruners, available in the garden department of
building supply stores), will make a clean cut. To use the ratchet action,
squeeze/release/squeeze.
You can use either C-Channel, or 1x1 blocking or 1x2 furring to provide a
vertical mounting surface for L-Channel if your walls are difficult to attach
to (concrete or concrete blocks, for example), or if you have an opening like
a stairwell into the ceiling area. You can also use CeilingLink top
track/bottom runner as a wall perimeter, altho using CeilingLink this way
is not as economical as using L-Channel or C-Channel.
Center full rows of ceiling panels so that the width of border panels on either
side is 12" or greater in width. Either a panel or a CeilingLink grid row will
be in the center of the space. To minimize distortion, don't over-tighten
screws when fastening L-Channel or CeilingLink top track.
When measuring or marking (with chalkline or laser or tight string) for
the 24 1/8-inch centers for the top track, measure from edge to edge (i.e.
left edge to left edge, or right to right--not left to right) and align the
top track to that edge instead of trying to infer the center. The top track
does not have to be installed perfectly straight because the bottom runner
corrects minor vertical & horizontal variances in the top track.
Install bottom runners so that the butted joint between two lengths overlaps
the top track joints.
We recommend using 1-inch drywall screws to attach the top track of CeilingLink
to joists or furring. The slight indentation, about 1/8" from the
outside edges of the top track, is where to start the tip of the drywall
screw. A little pressure will force the screw thru the plastic; it is
not necessary to tighten the screw all the way down, as doing this will
deform the plastic. Install screws on 16" centers on opposite sides of
the top track; some users put screws on both sides, as seen on our
photos page: Photos.
After installing two adjoining rows of top track & bottom runner, slide a row
of panels in from one end to see how they fit. Cross tees (23 3/4-inch--same as
panel width) are cut from the same lengths used for top tracks/bottom runners,
and act as spacers between panels. Cross tees are bottoms only; no top is required.
You can use hand cutters (anvil cutters) or a chop saw to cut cross tees.
A small putty or spackle knife can help "shoehorn" the last panel into place;
if necessary, you can trim the last panel so that only 1/4-inch rests on the perimeter
L-Channel.
Don't forget the common sense advice to measure twice and cut once.
Ductwork and other utilities are usually covered with soffits (drywall
box-arounds). You can get below some utilities by installing 1x2 or 2x2
furring to existing joints or beams and attaching CeilingLink to the
furring.
Altho CeilingLink is not designed to make soffits, a few of our more
creative customers have done this by using lattice, clear furring, and
blocking as mount points on the inner & outer corners. You can also use
paneling or beadboard on the vertical portion, and CeilingLink on the
bottom horizontal part.
If you are planning to attach CeilingLink or L-Channel directly to
ductwork (using self-tapping sheet metal screws, for example), we
recommend that the support system for the ductwork be secured using
drywall screws if it is currently secured with nails.
If you have specific questions, please phone or
email and we'll do our best to answer.
